From November 4 to 8, 2024, Vancouverites have another chance to try what was until recently considered the world’s rarest pasta, su filindeu. Known as “threads of god” in the Sardinian dialect, a new batch of the legendary lace-like pasta will be making its third annual pilgrimage to La Tana by way of a special collaboration with Cucina Fine Foods. Available for five days only, for lunch and dinner service, Banda Volpi culinary director Phil Scarfone, together with La Tana head chef Kenny Kao, have added a little twist to the traditional offering – Saffron Su Filindeu in tomato brodo with braised lamb, confit fennel, and pecorino Romano cheese. Reservations are now available online.
Once a real rarity as only a few women, the last surviving custodians of a 300-year-old tradition, knew how to make this intricate, labour intensive pasta; in recent years the passionate people of Sardinia have revived the craft, allowing the simple recipe, consisting of only three ingredients – durum wheat semolina, water, and salt – to be shared around the world. This batch was made exclusively for La Tana by Raffaella Marongiu Selis of Nuoro, Sardinia.
“We are honoured to be able to offer su filindeu at La Tana once again this November,” says Paul Grunberg, co-founder of Banda Volpi, the gang behind folkloric neighbourhood spots Savio Volpe, La Tana, Pepino’s, and Elio Volpe. “Su filindeu is still very difficult to find outside of Nuoro, so a special thank you is due to Barbara Adly and Pietro Canali of Cucina Fine Foods for entrusting us with su filindeu in Canada.”
This year, guests can enjoy Chefs Scarfone and Kao’s new interpretation of the traditional dish – Saffron Su Filindeu with braised lamb and confit fennel in a light tomato brodo; delicate sheets of su filindeau are added to the broth to order, before being topped with freshly grated pecorino Romano.
“At La Tana, we want to continue creating new Italian culinary experiences for our guests through collaboration,” adds Grunberg. “Just last month, we hosted Frasca Wines for a special winemaker dinner, this month we have su filindeu…we are always working on bringing unique events to the Commercial Drive community.”
To pair, wine director Kristi Linneboe recommends the mineral and spicy Pietradolce Etna Rosso from Sicily. Its notes of red cherry, orange peel and cedar are bold enough to complement the lamb yet elegant enough to let the delicate pasta shine.